Hertz Audio FAQ: Rental Car Confusion, CRX Splash Guards, Mercedes OBD2 Apps, and Jump Starters
-
1. Is Hertz the same as Hertz Rental Car?
-
2. Hertz the brand vs. hertz the unit—does it matter?
-
3. What should I check before buying a CRX splash guard?
-
4. Which Mercedes OBD2 scanner app actually works?
-
5. Can a portable jump starter charge a battery?
-
6. What's the biggest mistake dealers make when ordering car audio and electronics?
Before I answer these, a quick note from my desk: I'm a quality/compliance manager for an automotive accessories and electronics company. I review every spec sheet that goes out—roughly 200+ unique items a year—and I've rejected plenty of first deliveries for issues that looked minor on paper but would have been a headache at the install bay. My experience is based on about 200 mid-market orders with U.S. distributors. If you're sourcing European OEM parts or luxury vehicles, your experience might differ. Here's what I keep hearing from dealers and installers around six topics: Hertz the name, Hertz the unit, CRX splash guards, Mercedes diagnostics, jump starters, and the mistakes that cost you time.
- Is Hertz the same as Hertz Rental Car?
- Hertz the brand vs. hertz the unit—does it matter?
- What should I check before buying a CRX splash guard?
- Which Mercedes OBD2 scanner app actually works?
- Can a portable jump starter charge a battery?
- What's the biggest mistake dealers make when ordering car audio and electronics?
1. Is Hertz the same as Hertz Rental Car?
No. Hertz Audio is the car audio and electronics side. Hertz Rent a Car is a separate rental company. If you found this page by searching 'Hertz rental car Las Vegas airport,' you're probably looking for a rental counter, not a tweeter. Same with 'Hertz rental car weekend specials'—those are rental deals, not speaker sales.
That name collision is exactly why I'd rather a dealer call us directly than order 'a Hertz' and end up with a rental quote. We don't spend time bad-mouthing the rental side; it's just an annoying keyword overlap. For installers, the useful takeaway is simple: know which Hertz you're ordering. If you need a Hertz car audio system, look for Hertz Audio specs. If you need a car in Las Vegas, call the rental desk. Both companies exist, and confusing them wastes everyone's time.
2. Hertz the brand vs. hertz the unit—does it matter?
Yes, more than most people think. 'Hertz' is both a brand and a measurement. In audio, hertz (Hz) means cycles per second—the unit of frequency. A 40 Hz bass note is a deep subwoofer tone; a 2,000 Hz tone is a high-frequency presence. When you're matching speakers, amps, and processors, you're working with actual hertz values, not just the brand name.
I've seen installers ask for 'Hertz speakers' and ignore the frequency response range. That's like asking for a wrench by brand and not checking whether it's 10mm or 8mm. Not ideal, but workable if you catch it before the customer's door panel is off. The hertz measurement tells you how low a sub can go and how high a tweeter can reach. It's not the only spec, but it's the one people skip. And when you combine the brand with the measurement, 'Hertz' becomes a useful filter—just not the whole spec sheet.
3. What should I check before buying a CRX splash guard?
Fitment, fitment, fitment. A splash guard that fits a 1990 CRX HF may not fit a 1988 CRX Si without extra holes or brackets. We rejected a batch of 300 'fits all CRX' guards in Q1 2024 because the rear guard was 7mm too short for the bumper profile. It looked fine in the box. Once mounted, it gaped and let debris through. That's the kind of defect you don't see until the customer's on the road.
Before ordering, ask for the OEM part number or at least the mounting measurements. The material matters too: ABS plastic can crack in cold weather, while polypropylene stays flexible. If the listing doesn't say, assume it's a universal fit and that you'll be doing some trimming. 'Universal' often means 'close enough.' In the aftermarket, close enough is how returns happen.
4. Which Mercedes OBD2 scanner app actually works?
For a Mercedes, a generic OBD2 app that only reads emissions codes won't tell you why the ABS light is on. You need an app that supports manufacturer-specific PIDs—things like transmission control, SRS, and steering angle. The standard 16-pin OBD2 connector is defined by SAE J1962; some older Mercedes models used a 38-pin connector, so you may need an adapter.
The surprise wasn't the code; it was that the app couldn't clear it because it wasn't a generic OBD2 code. That's the trap. An app can claim 'Mercedes support' and still only read the engine control module. My rule: verify the app's compatibility list against the exact model year and platform. A good scanner app pays for itself in one diagnostic session. A bad one costs you a wasted afternoon and a customer who's still staring at a warning light.
5. Can a portable jump starter charge a battery?
Short answer: not the way you're hoping. A 12V portable jump starter delivers a high-current burst to start an engine. It doesn't charge a battery like a wall charger. Think of it as a helper, not a rehab. If your battery reads 9V, the jump starter supplies enough cranking current to turn the starter, and then the alternator does the actual charging.
It can also charge USB devices, which is handy—but draining a jump starter to charge a phone is a quick way to have no jump power left when you need it. According to Battery Council International (batterycouncil.org), a standard 12V battery is fully charged around 12.6-12.7 volts. If yours drops below that after a jump, you've got a charging system or battery health issue. For deep discharges, use a proper charger. Jump starters are for emergencies, not maintenance.
6. What's the biggest mistake dealers make when ordering car audio and electronics?
Ordering by brand and not by spec. We're proud of the Hertz name—Italian audio craftsmanship is real—but 'Hertz' alone doesn't tell you if a speaker fits a 2025 F-150 or a 2014 Golf. Check mounting depth, tweeter angle, nominal impedance, and the amp's RMS output (i.e., the continuous power, not peak). An underpowered speaker won't sound great; an overpowered one can burn. In our 2025 spec reviews, I've seen more returns from mismatched sensitivity than from actual defects.
The numbers said go with a cheaper amp because it claimed the same RMS spec. My gut said the power supply was too small. Bench test showed it delivered 40% less under load. That's the kind of experience that makes me pull out the spec sheet before the credit card.
Efficiency matters here too. We switched our quote requests to a digital fitment checklist, and it cut our turnaround from 5 days to 2. Not a marketing slogan—just fewer back-and-forth messages about mounting depth and trim options. If you're an installer, the same logic applies: get the specs right the first time, and you won't need to 'fix' it on the second trip.